Before you cancel your holiday, read this
Updated October 27 | You may have heard that over the weekend of October 3rd and 4th, there was a large protest in Male’, the capital of the Maldives. The story was widely covered by local media, but also major international media picked it up, such as the Associated Press, ABC News, and The Independent.
Shortly after this, the US State Department updated the Summary of its Travel Advisory for the Maldives. This prompted some rather alarmist headlines in various international publications. Unfortunately, many of those articles overestimated the significance of the State Department’s update. Critically, only a small piece of the State Department’s travel advice to the Maldives has changed, not the general ‘alert level’ (which would have been much more significant).
What has changed?
The State Department updated a tiny part of its Travel Advisory Summary. It did not change the Risk Indicators, nor the Travel Advisory Level for travellers visiting the Maldives. This means the Maldives remains on Travel Advisory Level 2, of 4 levels. Level 2 means ‘Exercise Increased Caution’ (Level 4 is ‘Avoid All Travel’). For context, the State Department has also placed the United Kingdom, France and Germany on Level 2 Travel Advisories.
It’s worth understanding that all foreign offices have to outline the worst-case scenarios, and they have always recommended that travellers exercise a certain degree of caution in the Maldives. However, the updated Summary of the State Department’s Travel Advisory only contains information about potential risks that numerous other foreign offices, including the UK Foreign Office, have listed for years.
It’s not unusual for the State Department to review or update advice; it’s part of its regular responsibilities. And protests and rallies are by no means uncommon in Male’. However, because the scale of the protest in Male’ was larger than usual, it attracted international media attention. And since that was followed by more incendiary headlines about the State Department update, it has left some holidaymakers and travel agents feeling nervous.
What happened overnight on Friday October 3rd?
There was a ‘Lootuvaifi’ (‘Stop the Looting’) protest against the Maldivian Government in Male’ on Friday evening, organised by the opposition MDP party. Over 2,500 Maldivians attended, which is a lot by Maldivian standards. The demonstration was about a number of issues that members of the public have become frustrated with, including the leaked Adeeb Files, constitutional amendments and a crackdown on media freedom.
Hundreds of riot police rerouted traffic and set up barricades. Military drones circled overhead. Maldivian police arrested eight protestors and have been criticised for deploying tear gas as well as sonic weapons on protestors, for the first time in the Maldives.
Are more protests planned?
Yes, there is set to be another protest on November 17th unless the government meets the MDP’s demands. However, that is currently the only other planned protest related to this matter.
Is it unusual to see protests in Male’?
Not particularly. It’s fairly common to see Maldivians exercising their democratic right to protest in Male’, over a wide range of issues. The majority of the rallies and demonstrations are normally peaceful. However, this was one of the largest protests Male’ has seen for a while and looks set to be followed up with at least one more.
How does the planned protest affect travellers?
The protest is highly unlikely to affect the vast majority of travellers. It will be contained in Male’, the capital city, which is on an island of its own.
The majority of international visitors never set foot in Male’. That’s because their arrival point, Velana International Airport, is not located in the capital city. The airport is on an island named Hulhule, which is adjacent to Male’. There is no reason for the protestors to go to the airport island, because the target of their protests is the central government in Male’.
Velana International Airport is sometimes incorrectly referred to as Male’ Airport, and its airport code is MLE, an abbreviation of Male’. But there is no airport in Male’.
When guests depart for their resorts via speedboats, seaplanes and domestic flights, their departure point is the same island that Velana International Airport is located on.
What if I’ve got a layover, city tour, or need to catch a boat from Male’?
November 17th is the next scheduled protest day, so that is the only date you need to consider in light of the planned large-scale protest.
Only a small number of people visiting the Maldives decide to stay overnight in Male’ (normally on layovers). Some visitors need to go to Male’ to catch a public ferry sailing to an inhabited island, such as Maafushi. And sometimes travellers take a Male’ Half Day Tour if they’re staying in a resort or guesthouse in Male’ Atoll.
Guided tours
For those planning on taking a guided city tour around Male’, it would be advisable to avoid going on November 17th. The main reason is that the majority of attractions are located on the eastern side of the island, where the protest will take place, so roads might be clogged or blocked.
Boat transfers
Many speedboat services working in partnership with guesthouses now offer pick-ups and drop-offs at the airport island. Check with your guesthouse to see if you can board/disembark there, rather than going to Male, if you’re arriving on November 17th.
If the speedboat or public ferry service you need only departs from Male’, your best option is to take a taxi directly from Velana International Airport via the Sinamale Bridge to the ferry terminal. If the departure point you need is Jetty 6 or the Main Ferry Terminal in the northeast of the island, you may be affected by road diversions and closures on November 17th. That’s because the protest will take place at the Artificial Beach area on the eastern side of Male’. Vilingili Ferry Terminal is unlikely to be affected because it’s on the far side of the island.
At the demonstration on October 3rd, protestors attempted to march along Majeedhee Magu as well (the main shopping street), which is where there was an almost three-hour standoff with riot police.
So, if you do need to transit through Male’ on November 17th, hopefully your taxi driver will be able to find an alternate route to your ferry terminal if some roads are closed.
Layovers
The protestors in Male’ have no interest in tourists. However, travellers are typically advised by their foreign offices to avoid any protests. If you’re staying in one of the larger hotels on the east side of Male’ on November 17th, it’s possible you might be affected by the noise. Also, if the police deploy tear gas again, there’s a chance of a small amount of it seeping through windows even when they are closed, depending on the wind direction.
If you’re concerned about staying in Male’ during the anti-government protests on November 17th, you could consider changing your hotel to one in Hulhumale inhabited island (joined by causeway to the airport island), Villingili inhabited island (the opposite side of Male’ from the airport island) or even a local resort such as Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort, Kurumba Maldives or Adaaran Prestige Vadoo.
Key takeaways
The next large protest in Male’ is scheduled to take place over one day on November 17th. It’s unlikely to affect the majority of visitors coming to the Maldives as it will only take place in Male’ city. Those arriving and departing via Velana International Airport will not be affected because it’s on a separate island, not in Male’.
Familiarise yourself with your country’s foreign office advice for travellers visiting the Maldives so you can understand the risk factors in context, and recognise the difference for yourself between a small update and a much more significant change.
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